A Few Relaxing Days in KL

25th & 26th April 2013

We finally have a few days to relax, sleep in and have no organised agenda.

By the time we were up and mobile, it was more time for brunch than breakfast, so we wandered across the road to the massive Pavillion Shopping Centre, and I settled into an excellent serve of nasi lemak, whilst Carole went for soft boiled eggs and toast. After continued attempts to soft boil the eggs (we think by steaming) , Carole eventually told them to put them in a pan and fry them.

On ANZAC Day we just explore the area around the hotel, (there is now an airconditioned walkway from the Pavillion Shopping Centre, all the way to the Twin Towers, and Suria KLCC shopping precinct), do a bit of shopping and take a ride of the free city bus service from Ampang Park to Sungai Wang Plaza.

The usual afternoon storm hit at around 2.30pm, and went for a couple of hours. We managed to dodge most of it, finding cover in the shopping centres.

Andy turned up at the hotel at 6pm sharp to take us to dinner at one of the newer restaurants in town that has quite a following. It is best described as a fusion cuisine with a bit of most Asian cuisines and some western dishes, with a bit of an Asian twist. It was called  Souled Out.

The food was very good and it was comfortable casual dining in an undercover outdoor area. We dined reasonably early and there was already a good crowd, which just built over the time we were there.

After dinner we went to the Lake Club, to revive a few old memories and have a nightcap.

When we got back to the hotel, our room was filled with a very strong solvent smell, which was not coming from the corridor, but seemed to be coming through the air conditioning system. After an appropriate amount of complaining we were shifted to another floor, when they finally came to the room to see the problem first hand.

26th April

After another good sleep in, we ventured out for something light for breakfast, and decided to do a bit of shopping.

 Having had some success with the Go KL free bus service yesterday, we thought we would give it another go today, this time on the other of the 2 routes they offer. We weren't that sure where we were going, because we didn't have a route map, so trusted our somewhat rusty memory to work out where we were. It soon became clear we were near Petaling Street (Chinatown), so promptly got off and spent an our or so there getting a few small things.

Then it was back on the bus to get us home, and get ready for dinner with Andy, Eve and some of his friends. We had a fantastic meal at a Chinese restaurant in the back blocks of Cheras, and by the time we finished a huge meal and a few drinks we were ready for bed as we have to get up at 5.30am in the morning to have time to get to the airport and fly home.

It has been a great couple of days in KL.

Off to Kuala Lumpur

24th April 2013

We depart from the ship at 7.15am to catch a bus to Mandalay Airport. Our flight is scheduled to leave for Yangon at 9.45am, but as we have become used to now, as soon as everyone is there, the plane takes off. So our departure is 20 minutes ahead of schedule.

Once we arrive at Yangon, we have to transfer to the International terminal, which is not a long way, but the place is chaotic. As we were unsure how it would all work, we decided to take up an option that Orient Express offered, which was to handle everything for us including our baggage check in, payment of departure tax (10 USD each), transport to the international Terminal, and escort us through to immigration. This cost us USD 28 each (10 USD of which was departure tax). When we saw what a shambles it was when we arrived at the domestic terminal, we think it was money well spent.

The departure to KL left about 30 mins late, mainly due to congestion at Yangon airport, as departures were lined up several deep waiting for take off. We picked up most of the lost time and arrived in KL only 5 mins late.

My old friend, Andy Yap. was there to pick us up, and also collected Mike 7 Joy once they checked in to the airport hotel, to take us all into KL for dinner. we ended up going straight to dinner at the South Seas restaurant in Subang, enjoyed a very nice meal and then headed off to the Selangor Club for nightcap, to ensure Mike 7 Joy saw a bit of KL before they moved on (Andy insisted). We the finally checked in to our hotel (The Marriot), in town, and Andy kindly dropped Mike & Joy back to their hotel, despite their continued insistence they could get a cab.

The Last Pagoda

23^rd April 2013

It is our last day on The Road to Mandalay, and it is another reasonably early start. Straight after breakfast we meet the bus at 7.30am to take us to the Mandalay tourist jetty to catch a boat to Mingun. The jetty area is a hive of activity and things are pretty basic.

A local truck fires up ready to move some goods

Most cargo is moved by hand

                                                Time for an early morning bath in the river

The boat trip takes about an hour upstream, and is most enjoyable, as we take in the sights of activity along the river. The boat is chartered for our group and not everyone came, so there is only about 16 of us on the boat. The boat operators take the opportunity to set up a table and pull out some local handicrafts in the hope of snaring a dollar or two, and they do OK.

                           All sorts of river cruise boats are rafted up to the shore

A shipment of logs coming down the river

Our boat is also fitted with a bamboo depth sounder

On arrival at Mingun we are met on the shore by the local taxi service, and the usual enthusiastic group of ladies selling handicrafts. 

We head off walking to see the first of the highlights of Mingun, which include, a huge unfinished brick pagoda, which was seriously damaged by earthquakes about 25 years ago. Apparently the King of the time wanted to build the Worlds’ biggest pagoda, but the construction team revolted and it was never completed.

The earthquake damage is substantial. They have no stopped people climbing the pagoda

Following along the same theme, he also commissioned construction of the Worlds’ largest ringing bell. This was completed and is now proudly displayed in its’ own building in Mingun.

Finally we then head off to see another pagoda, nicknamed the “Wedding Cake” pagoda. It has a history similar to the Taj Mahal, in that was built as a monument to a lost loved one.

It is then a long walk back to the boat, past the remains of the Worlds’ largest temple lions which were built to protect the pagoda.

                                                   The Worlds'largest ringing bell

The Worlds largest temple lions bum

                                                            Wedding Cake Pagoda

                                         View from the Wedding Cake Pagoda

We are back at the boat just before lunch, so manage to clear the dust with a cold beer, before lunch. It is very hot today (we were later told the max temp was 43.5 C).

                                             A few sights from the village of Mingun

A well deserved rest is taken after lunch before we are back in the bus at 3pm, to head to the hills, Sagaing Hills to be precise. These are the hills on the opposite side of the river to where we are berthed, and they are dotted with religious monuments, with gold spires popping above the ground everywhere. At the top of the hills are some very spectacular pagodas (we have become quite expert on pagodas and can’t wait to see our last one)

On the way to the Sagaing Hills we visit a pottery, where villagers still hand make the water bowls that are still part of everyday life for many in Mandalay.

                                                 This is how the pots are made

And this is how you deliver the finished product

Still on the way , we drop in to see a silversmith, making the usual bowls, trays etc. It is pretty unimpressive compared to what we saw in Cambodia and it is a short visit.

Embossing a silver bowl by hand

Almost at our last Pagoda, we call in to a nunnery, to see how the nuns live. Unfortunately, the nuns are not available for viewing. We were told they were studying , but on the way home we saw them all over the streets going places. But we did get see a little of their quarters.

                                            Mike inspecting the Nun's kitchen

                             The only nun we saw was at the entrance to the nunnery

Finally we found ourselves at the large pagoda at the top of the hills, that has been our view from the other side of the river since we have been in Mandalay.

You can see this pagoda from almost anywhere in Mandalay

As promised , the view is spectacular and well worth the trip to see it. We can see the “Road to Mandalay” at her berth on the other side of the river and most of the surrounds. The view highlights how busy the river port is, in particular, for the shipment and transshipment of logs from upriver. There is a road to China from Mandalay.

View from the Pagoda, Road to Mandalay in the centre of the picture

Having enjoyed the 360 degree view from the pagoda, we returned to the ship for a  great sunset and farewell dinner, as we leave the ship first thing tomorrow morning to fly back to Yangon, and on to Kuala Lumpur, where we will spend a few days before flying home.

Whilst Mandalay is Myanmars’ second largest city, it is a stark contrast to Yangon, and much more like the Myanmar we expected to see. Life is relatively simple, development has not yet taken over, and no doubt it will grow and develop substantially in years to come. Motor cycles are everywhere and the traffic chaotic, unlike the almost planned order in Yangon.

The other striking feature is the amount of money and resources poured into religious monuments in what is still a poor country.

Mandalay

22^nd April 2013

We weigh anchor at 6.30am, and are treated to a very special sunrise. We will be sailing up the river until after lunch when we will berth on the outskirts of Mandalay, Shwe Kyet Yet village, where The Road to Mandalay have their main base, mainly because it is accessible to the ship all year round.

To fill in the morning, a number of activities are planned. First up is a presentation from the ship’s doctor on the social contribution the company (and he) , makes to the Burmese community. It  is a very interesting presentation, and shows how businesses must work with the community in these countries to give something back, when there is so much need. The main work they are involved in includes, the provision of school buildings for needy communities, assistance with payment of teachers for high school education, supply of materials for students like pencils, books etc, and a significant input to the supply of medical care for those in areas where the ship operates from. They have a free clinic at the main base in Mandalay, for people to come for care when the ship is in port.

At 11am, we have a cooking demonstration from the Head Chef, up on the top deck. It is very well presented and we will certainly try the curry prawn recipe we were given.

After lunch, we are touring again, this time by bus into the main city of Mandalay. It is more like the Burma we were expecting, a bit more basic, roads not so good, and more people living at a much more simple level. Because it has been so dry, it is also dusty, and it is very hot.

Our first stop is the Mahamuni Pagoda. At this temple there is only one Buddha stature, and people can buy and add gold leaf to the statue for good luck. It is now many times its original size as layers of gold leaf are added.

Next we are off to see a workshop making gold leaf by hand. It is a grueling process, but keeps people employed. The process of making the paper which separates the layers of gold leaf being beaten, takes 3 years ! It takes about 50 hrs of hard physical work to reduce the gold down to the thickness used.

We then went to the Shwenandaw Monastery, an old wooden building made of teak, that was originally the residence of the last Queen.

Following this, we went to see the Kuthadaw Pagoda , the site of the Worlds’ largest book, where the entire Buddhist scriptures are carved into marble slabs and displayed in 729 white pagodas.( there are 2 pages in each pagoda, one on each side of the slab).

Each of these white structures contains two pages of the scriptures carved in a marble slab

Slab with scriptures engraved in the face

 Scale model of the site

A photo opportunity, but unfortunately, not a visit inside was our next stop outside the walled old city, where the palace is located. It is surrounded by a huge moat, occupies and area 2 km square, and is now occupies by the Military. Whilst it is the biggest site in Mandalay we are told that there is not a lot to see beyond the walls.

Palace moat

Back on the bus having taken our photos, we are taken to a rough old dirt road lined with people making carvings out of marble. The latest power tools make working on the marble relatively easy, but OH & S rules here are obviously different from home, as workers are coated in white marble dust, and no breathing masks can be seen.

Polishing is still are labour intensive process.

It has been a big day, and we are now on our way back to the ship, or at least we thought we were. One last stop is added to the itinerary, at short notice, a visit to the Worlds’ longest timber bridge. It is only a footbridge but is very long, and is built from teak, taken from two temples in the area that were destroyed to provide the timber. It looks like it needs a bit of repair, but we walked out on it a few hundred metres.

local fleet near the bridge

Now we really are on the way back to the boat, and we are all looking forward to a cool drink to get the dust out of our throats.  After a nice cool shower and a few beers we are back to normal and ready for dinner.

During dinner a strong squall came through. There was lots of activity on the upper deck securing furniture etc., not a lot of rain though.