Friday, April 26, 2013

The Last Pagoda


23rd April 2013

It is our last day on The Road to Mandalay, and it is another reasonably early start. Straight after breakfast we meet the bus at 7.30am to take us to the Mandalay tourist jetty to catch a boat to Mingun. The jetty area is a hive of activity and things are pretty basic.



A local truck fires up ready to move some goods


Most cargo is moved by hand



                                                Time for an early morning bath in the river

The boat trip takes about an hour upstream, and is most enjoyable, as we take in the sights of activity along the river. The boat is chartered for our group and not everyone came, so there is only about 16 of us on the boat. The boat operators take the opportunity to set up a table and pull out some local handicrafts in the hope of snaring a dollar or two, and they do OK.



                           All sorts of river cruise boats are rafted up to the shore


A shipment of logs coming down the river


Our boat is also fitted with a bamboo depth sounder

On arrival at Mingun we are met on the shore by the local taxi service, and the usual enthusiastic group of ladies selling handicrafts. 





We head off walking to see the first of the highlights of Mingun, which include, a huge unfinished brick pagoda, which was seriously damaged by earthquakes about 25 years ago. Apparently the King of the time wanted to build the Worlds’ biggest pagoda, but the construction team revolted and it was never completed.





The earthquake damage is substantial. They have no stopped people climbing the pagoda
Following along the same theme, he also commissioned construction of the Worlds’ largest ringing bell. This was completed and is now proudly displayed in its’ own building in Mingun.
Finally we then head off to see another pagoda, nicknamed the “Wedding Cake” pagoda. It has a history similar to the Taj Mahal, in that was built as a monument to a lost loved one.
It is then a long walk back to the boat, past the remains of the Worlds’ largest temple lions which were built to protect the pagoda.



                                                   The Worlds'largest ringing bell



The Worlds largest temple lions bum



                                                            Wedding Cake Pagoda





                                         View from the Wedding Cake Pagoda

We are back at the boat just before lunch, so manage to clear the dust with a cold beer, before lunch. It is very hot today (we were later told the max temp was 43.5 C).


                                             A few sights from the village of Mingun





A well deserved rest is taken after lunch before we are back in the bus at 3pm, to head to the hills, Sagaing Hills to be precise. These are the hills on the opposite side of the river to where we are berthed, and they are dotted with religious monuments, with gold spires popping above the ground everywhere. At the top of the hills are some very spectacular pagodas (we have become quite expert on pagodas and can’t wait to see our last one)

On the way to the Sagaing Hills we visit a pottery, where villagers still hand make the water bowls that are still part of everyday life for many in Mandalay.


                                                 This is how the pots are made


And this is how you deliver the finished product

Still on the way , we drop in to see a silversmith, making the usual bowls, trays etc. It is pretty unimpressive compared to what we saw in Cambodia and it is a short visit.


Embossing a silver bowl by hand


Almost at our last Pagoda, we call in to a nunnery, to see how the nuns live. Unfortunately, the nuns are not available for viewing. We were told they were studying , but on the way home we saw them all over the streets going places. But we did get see a little of their quarters.


                                            Mike inspecting the Nun's kitchen


                             The only nun we saw was at the entrance to the nunnery

Finally we found ourselves at the large pagoda at the top of the hills, that has been our view from the other side of the river since we have been in Mandalay.


You can see this pagoda from almost anywhere in Mandalay



As promised , the view is spectacular and well worth the trip to see it. We can see the “Road to Mandalay” at her berth on the other side of the river and most of the surrounds. The view highlights how busy the river port is, in particular, for the shipment and transshipment of logs from upriver. There is a road to China from Mandalay.


View from the Pagoda, Road to Mandalay in the centre of the picture






Having enjoyed the 360 degree view from the pagoda, we returned to the ship for a  great sunset and farewell dinner, as we leave the ship first thing tomorrow morning to fly back to Yangon, and on to Kuala Lumpur, where we will spend a few days before flying home.




Whilst Mandalay is Myanmars’ second largest city, it is a stark contrast to Yangon, and much more like the Myanmar we expected to see. Life is relatively simple, development has not yet taken over, and no doubt it will grow and develop substantially in years to come. Motor cycles are everywhere and the traffic chaotic, unlike the almost planned order in Yangon.

The other striking feature is the amount of money and resources poured into religious monuments in what is still a poor country.

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